Oneday trip to Tsari Mali grad - where Middle Ages meet reality

As typical people living in the capital, we look forward to every weekend to spend more time together. As soon as the forecast shows a good weekend weather, we immediately start discussing where to. Fortunately, our little Bulgaria has lots of wonderful places, where you could go with children.

It was promising to be a sunny and warm weekend in mid October and we wanted to be outside enjoying the sun as long as possible. Our little kid could now handle longer walks and at the same time we didn't want to travel far. We had to choose a destination that is about an hour away from Sofia, and so we decided it was time to visit Tsari Mali Grad – a late antique Roman fortress and fortified settlement, nestled in the foothills of Verila Mountain.

Routes from Sofia

We reached the place in about an hour and choose to go through the scenic road along the eastern slopes of Vitosha. In autumn, the nature around the village of Zheleznitsa is delightful, all kinds of colors spread along the trees. The distance through this road is about 50 km. There are two more routes – the first, which is also very beautiful – along the royal road to Samokov and Borovets, through Pancharevo and Iskar dam. The kilometers this way are 75. The longest distance is through Struma highway, through Dupnitsa, but there are no turns on this route.

Belchin village

To get to Tsari Mali grad, we had to go through Belchin village, close to town of Samokov. The area has long history, rich culture and gorgeous nature. There are several springs of mineral water, which makes balneology in the are well developed. Spa hotels and swimming pools provide health treatment and great experience for vacationers. And then right there, over one of the hills around the village, white walls and towers of a fortress have been standing - a testimony to the existence of a medieval fortress. In the past, the village of Belchin had been mainly visited for the healing power of mineral waters. However, after many years of archaeological activity in the area, the fortress on the hill of St. Spas, towering over the village, had been restored, partially reconstructed and opened doors to visitors in 2013. Nowadays, Tsari Mali grad is part of the 100 National Tourist Sites of Bulgaria and attracts thousands of national and foreign tourists.

Eco-path Tsari Mali Grad

We had arrived at the place a bit before noon, but had to go back to leave the car at the nearest parking lot. There were no available spots closer to the hill at the time of arrival. Then, we stopped at the cafe to get coffee and some energizing smothies before the walk all the way up.

There are several ways to get to the top of the hill. You can go by car, with a panoramic rail lift - funicular or along two eco-paths - one on the left side and one on the right side. We chose the left eco-path as it seemed to be easier for children. The climb was very nice, easy and beautifil. It took us about 30 minutes to get to the top with the kid. Suddenly, she decided she didn't want to stay in the carrier anymore and would just walk alone. And she actually made it to the end of the path.

The playground within nature

The end of the path leads to a fairy grove - a great place for active games in the nature. A large space at the top of the hill has been converted into a playground with wooden and rope facilities. There are attractions for children of all ages – climbing frames, slides, swings. However, the most interesting for all of us, was the rope bridge that leads to the fortress. It's not any dangerous, nor hanging over a precipice, it's just for fun. At the end of the grove, on the opposite side of the fortress, there is an opportunity for horse riding. Also, there are severa gazebos and tables with benches, great place to have meal outside. Overall, the place is well suited for a whole day of entertainment for both children and adults.

We spent some time playing on the swings and slides, chasing around the grove and hiding behind the trees, and then we walked across the rope bridge that took us to the back of the fortress. We went around to get to the front. The landscape from the panoramic terrace below the fortress is breathtaking. The view of Belchin village and the mountains ahead is fabulous.. The hill has always been sacred to the locals – it has been keeping its secrets for centuries and the Christian faith intact.

The fortress

At the entrance,we were given plastic cards with a QR code, twhich redirects to an audio guide with interesting stories about Tsari Mali grad and Belchin village. As soon as we entered the gates of the fortress, we felt the energy of the place. First thing that grabsbed our attention was the medieval Church of the Ascension of Christ. The researchers had founf traces of three temples, built at different times right on the remains of the previous sanctuaries. The last one is believed to be in the middle of the 15th century, when Presbyter John built a temple to welcome and shelter the relics of St. Ivan Rilski on its way to the Rila Monastery.

The two quadrangular towers, flanking the portal, have been reconstructed. There is an exhibition with discovered artifacts and reconstructions, testimony to the rich material and cultural heritage of the ancient settlement. Coins, cutlery, luxury and household ceramics are on display. Daily clothes of the ancient local population are recreated, and original ornaments, found during the excavations, are also displayed. It is very interesting in the museum, the atmosphere really takes you back to the past. The next moment though, from the top of the towers you are immersed in reality, the beautiful nature outside fully wraps you up, the fresh air fills your lungs and the view leaves you speechless. There is definitely some magic to this place and the legend really comes to life.

Games and walks in-between the fortress walls

Although she doesn't understand anything about history yet, our daughter also liked the place very much. We walked through the alleys in the complex, collected acorns, autumn leaves and lots of vitamin D. On the way back we chose to go down with the attractive rail elevator. Despite the queue, the wait was pleasant because of the wonderful view. We also used the time for some family photos on the beautiful background.

That was the end of our first visit to Tsari Mali grad. If you haven't been there yet, I recommend putting it on your bucket list!

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